HISTORIC JEWELLERY, Glossary of Terms

ART DECO: A style which originated in France in the 1920’s, featuring jewellery which is usually geometric in shape and ornate.

BUCKLE RING: Since Roman times they have been used as betrothal rings.

CABOCHON: The oldest method of cutting gemstones, still in use for opaque, imperfect or star stones. The top of the stone is rounded, without facets; the base may be concave, convex or flat.

CAMEO: A carved gem or stone, in which the carved design stands out against a dark or light background.

CLADDAGH RING: A traditional ring originating from a 400-year-old Irish legend. It features a crown representing loyalty, hands, representing friendship and a heart, representing love. When a man gives this ring to a woman, it symbolises that she will hold his heart in her hands, and the same is true when she gives the ring to him

CHASING: The method of decorating silver or gold using punches and a hammer. There are two distinct types of chasing - repousse and flat. Flat or surface chasing is done from the front, giving definition to the metal, but not cutting into it (which is engraving.) Repousse chasing is done by bulging out the metal from behind, then bringing out the metal by chasing from the front.

CLOISSONNE: Enamelling, in which narrow strips of silver or gold wire are bent to form cells and soldered to the base, the cloisonnes or compartments then being filled with enamel.

DEAREST RING: A style of 19th century master jewellers, using seven natural gemstones set in gold. By combining the first letter of the stones the word 'dearest' is created, especially for the person dearest to the heart of the giver e.g. 7 stones - diamond, emerald, amethyst, ruby, emerald, sapphire, tourmaline.

DOUBLET: A composite stone consisting of two genuine stones, or one genuine and one imitation, cemented together to appear as one larger stone.

FEDE RING: One of the oldest types of friendship rings, featuring a central motif of two clasped hands, to symbolise trust and faith.

FILIGREE: Delicate thread-like decoration in gold or silver wire.

GIMMEL: A betrothal ring made in two parts, symbolising two hopes (Latin - gemellus - twin.)

GYPSY SETTING: A setting where the top of the gemstone is scarcely above the surrounding metal, sometimes engraved in a star pattern, as though the rays emanated from the gemstone.

INTAGLIO: A carved design hollowed out of the surface of the gem.

LUNATE: Crescent-shaped (from the Latin word for moon).

MARQUISE CUT: A faceted stone, elliptical shaped pointed-end cut, features 56 or 58 expertly placed, sparkling facets. Because the marquise shape was developed in reference to a marquise’s lips, the cut itself represents royalty and Old World aristocracy, for a marquis is the level of nobility between a count and a duke. This shape is also part of different crown jewels and adds a hint of royal connection to any engagement ring

MARQUISITE: The name popularly given to Iron pyrites when used for jewellery. True Marquisite is rare, having a different crystal structure.

MIZPAH: Jewellery given to departing soldiers, family and friends featuring the Hebrew parting gesture.  The name implies God's watchfulness on the giver and receiver of the ring while they are parted.

PAPAL RING: The ring conferred on the Pope at his investiture. The term is also loosely applied to any large ecclesiastical ring.

REGARD RING: A token of friendship for a special friend, originating in the 1800's, featuring the initials of six natural gemstones set to spell the word 'regard'.

PINCHBACK: An alloy of copper and zinc used in imitation jewellery to simulate gold.  It was invented by jeweller Christopher Pinchback in the 17th century.

ROSE CUT: A flat-based stone covered with triangular facets, usually 24 in number. Said to have been invented by Cardinal Mazarin, but probably introduced from India by the Venetians.

ROSE GOLD: The traditional name for pink gold, dating back to antiquity.

SCARAB: A gem cut in the form of a beetle, which was worshipped by the ancient Egyptians. Often a design in intaglio was cut on the underside.